Eat/See/Love: Copenhagen

12 Oct

Last week I blogged about my time in Berlin. I went straight from Berlin and flew into Copenhagen, Denmark (it’s insanely close – only a 50 minute flight and only cost £20 to get from one to the other).

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Anyway, when I arrived the Danish Krone and the language confused the hell out of me. I very soon realised everyone speaks English – which helped, obviously, but I dislike going somewhere and not having the locals at least let me TRY and mis-pronounce their language! The Danish Krone is also a bit confusing – it’s around £12.50 per 100DK – hopefully that’ll help any Brits heading there.

Getting from the airport to the center of town took 15 minutes on the metro. The metro only has two lines and public transport is VERY expensive in Copenhagen – when people say it’s an expensive city they REALLY mean it.

That aside, it’s an absolutely incredible city. Beautiful. With so much to do. Full of lovely people. And now I’m going to rave about the highlights of my trip.

EAT: So, we all know that most of my food blogs are about my hunt for the best burger in London. Now, previously, I’ve stated that the best burger in Europe is in Barcelona. However… I may have been wrong about that.

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SAY WHAT?

Ok, so Halifax burger started in 2007 and is the brainchild of two brothers. There are now four Halifax burger joints in Copenhagen and dear god I wish they’d bring one to London.

The menu is amazing – you build a burger from scratch, so there’s around 10 different options for EVERYONE, beef, chicken and veggie eaters. You pick your ‘type’ of burger (all named after cities), then pick the type of bun you want, then pick your burger (beef, chicken or two different veggie options), your side sauce, your ‘side’ (ranging from fries and wedges to onions rings and salad) and VOILA.

I went for the ‘Zurich’ burger: instead of the bread on top, you get a potato, onion and herb rosti, topped with garlic and herb butter. You also get sweet chilli fried mushrooms, lettuce, red onion, pickled cucumber (which FYI is AWESOME). Then I went for a white bun, chicken burger, potato wedges and aioli.

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It is absolutely fucking incredible. The rosti is amazing and is lighter and FAR tastier than a bun on top. The salad is fresh and everything is made from scratch each morning – so needless to say the aioli is amazing. In fact, it’s the best aioli I’ve ever had and I get it everywhere I see it. The chicken is perfectly tender and pickle cucumber tastes GREAT.

The wedges are also beautifully done – the seasoning has a kick, but isn’t spicy. And paired with the aioli they’re divine. Basically, I would like to start a long-term (and unfortunately long-distance) relationship with this burger. For the entire meal it’s also ‘only’ around £15 (135DK). If you go to Copenhagen you’d be a fool to give this place a miss. There are a load of other burger options aside from the ‘Zurich’ (for example, the ‘Liverpool’ burger is essentially English breakfast in a burger: lettuce, tomato, onion, HP sauce, cheddar, bacon and a fried egg): beautiful. Also, their Danish apple cider is great and bizarrely only costs about 20p more than a glass of cola, so definitely give that a try too.

SEE: When I was in Copenhagen, I did the obvious things and visited the Little Mermaid and Trivoli Park. However, my visit to Christiana was the most interesting.

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Christiana is a self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood of about 850 residents. The authorities in Copenhagen regard Christiania as a large commune, but the area has a unique status in that it is regulated by a special law, the Christiania Law of 1989 which transfers parts of the supervision of the area from the municipality of Copenhagen to the state. The Danish authorities have overlooked the cannabis trade there for a while, however they have now stated in order for Christiana to truly govern  themselves, they need to purchase the land they’re on from the government. So, the area is open to locals and tourists and they sell all sorts in order to raise funds.

The place is unique – it has a ‘Green Light District’ which takes up most of the area open to the public – but you can’t photos there (basically because if the Danish government saw photos of the pot being smoked and sold there they’d freak out). The place is quite incredible – their ‘rules’ are pretty much: love each, cause each other no harm and be happy.

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There’s a bar, some restaurants and the food there looked amazing. However, I went to the bar (duh) and asked for a cider. Carlsberg is brewed in Copenhagen and they now have their own cider, which is yummy. However, I was given the option to have a ‘Cactus’ version of the cider, rather than apple or pear – which obviously I went for. It tasted nice.. possibly illegally good.

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The place is full of street art and reggae is all that’s played. The residents seem bemused at the popularity of the place with tourists, but also proud that they’ve taken a stand. Definitely worth taking a stroll to if you have a spare 2 hours.

SEE: Another see, of course. This time I’m going to recommend a Flea Market. Flea markets are kind of a big deal in Copenhagen, and at the weekend you’ll find them popping up all over the place. I went to one next to the Assistens Cemetery (a stunning place in itself, home to the dead body of Hans Christian Anderson…) which was good, but not as good as the vintage flea market that popped up next to the Town Hall (near Trivoli Park).

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I came across someone selling a vintage Cola bottle, unopened, selling for about £20. The bottle dated to the 1950s and I totally would have got it if they’d let me carry the bloody thing in my hand luggage. Anyway, you should go and check out one of the markets if you have time There are loads of great (and terrible) things for sale, so have a hunt.

LOVE: Copenhagen isn’t as sexy as London. It’s not as romantic as Paris. It’s not as S&M as Berlin. However, it’s so charming I think it need to become an alternative romantic getaway place.

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Copenhagen is a city to walk around. Transport is expensive (tickets only last one hour, which is petty useless really when they’re around £5 a pop). Or, it’s a city of boat around. The canals and the lakes all have options for you to float on the water and quite frankly, it was all painfully happy couples doing so. WHATEVER. Anyway – floating and strolling around the city is definitely something best done with a partner I reckon. I spent 7 hours walking the city one day and I ended up just swearing at how much my feet hurt or singing to myself, At one point I sang all the songs from the Little Mermaid in a row and then got annoyed I couldn’t remember all the words. Pretty sure I need saving from myself 90% of the time…

So, go. Go eat great food. Go see beautiful sites. But do it with someone. As much fun as I had making friends in the hostels I stayed in and exploring the city for myself it would have been more fun with someone else there. True, I’m already planning my next solo trip – but, the main reason you need someone else there isn’t for the chat. Or the romance. Or to save you from the loneliness. It’s because I was only in ONE SODDING PHOTO from my holiday because I hate selfies. Bring a camera person and you’re sorted.

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