Istanbul – Sept 2012

The map above is from Where I’ve Been – apparently I’ve now visited about 5% of the world. Aiming to get that to 10% over the next two years… anyway, I can now turn Turkey from green (want to visit) to blue (have visited).

Istanbul is a completely affordable place to visit and is the only city in the world which straddles two continents. The weather is still hot even at the end of September (around the 28 degree mark) and the city is fascinating.

I stayed in Deniz Houses – a boutique hotel which only cost me and friend 80 Euros a night. It’s in the Sultanhamet district of Istanbul – sort of known as the budget travellers area, but it’s also the centre of the ‘Old Town’. It was a great hotel, the reception was open  24 hours and they arranged all sorts of trips for us. Complimentary breakfast on the roof terrace each morning, free sweets, tea and coffee and complimentary water and fruit in the rather nice room.

Istanbul is an odd kind of city – steeped in history with around 3,200 mosques and it hasn’t lost any of it’s old world charm. I only went for three days but I managed to fit a LOT in (I’m that kind of traveller – screw beach holidays, I want to really experience a place and learn something. City > beach any day).

On the first evening I simply strolled around the local bazaar, saw a Whirling Dervish dance (traditional Turkish dance – sort of hypnotising, especially after one or two glasses of Raki) and ate at a rather lovely cafe. Be warned: not all restaurants serve alcohol and ALL restaurants will have numerous stray cats and dogs trying to eat your food. Personally I love cats, so when one joined me on the chair next to me it was no issue!

On my first full day, I experienced Turkish breakfast. It’s absolutely terrible. Cake-y bread with butter, eggs, ham, olives and biscuits… they really don’t know how to do breakfast out there. I then went on a tour of the old city. I started off by going to a mosque which was built by old Ottoman Royalty; it used to be that no-one was allowed to be richer than the Sultan – so when a very wealthy lady married a very wealthy man, their wealth vastly exceeded the Sultans. So, they got rid of a lot of their money by building this mosque.

I’m not sure what I think of mosques. Your shoes have to be removed, which I like as it does make the whole experience a lot more… personal? I’m not sure how to put it, but it makes you feel more vulnerable and closer to your surroundings. As someone who strongly believes in equal rights, the fact I had to wrap a plain blue skirt around my lower half (apparently my legs were too shapely an my leggings were too patterned), as well as wrap a shawl around my head AND make sure my arms, chest and bum was covered…  well, the whole thing frustrated me a bit.

Next I visited the Egyptian Spice Bazaar (above) – purchased a HUGE box of Apple tea (adore the stuff) – you can actually get Apple tea in the UK, but it’s not quite the same. They put too much sugar in over here. Anyway, after that I went on a 2 hours boat trip up and down the Bosphorous. The water was beautiful – the Bosphorous is a channel which separates the European side of Istanbul from the Asian side and it links the Mediterranean to the Black Sea. The views were incredible – the European side is full of important historical landmarks – one of the last palaces to be built by the Ottomans, castles, ornate art galleries; the Asian side however was lined with mansions. Apparently if you’re a rich celebrity, you go and purchased a house in Asian Istanbul, overlooking the Bosphorous – very nice indeed.

The next day I crammed a hell of a lot in – I went to Asia (cost me £1 and took 15 minutes to get there by boat). I didn’t really go to do anything other than say I’ve not been to another continent – but the floating cafe I had a drink in was pretty good! After returning to Europe I went to the Grand Bazaar. The Grand Bazaar is THE place the haggle. Had men shouting offers at me (sexual and for purchase of their goods) from all over, but I ended up bartering with a man and getting a traditional glass apple tea-cup and saucer down from 15TL to 7TL. Not bad for my first try! The food there is also incredible. Fez Cafe is the famous one, but I went to the one next door and had the best halloumi sandwich ever. I’m a big fan of halloumi, so naturally couldn’t visit Turkey without trying some!

Next stop was actually right next to my hotel – the Blue Mosque and the Haiga Sophia. The blue mosque is incredible – as you can see, quiiiite a big place and inside it’s adorned with so many beautiful lights. The area surrounding the mosque is very VERY touristy, but you can see why. Be warned – at particular times of the day, all mosques have speakers attached to them and very LOUD singing/chanting takes place. For some reason it always happened when my friend and I sat down to eat! Unfortunately I only say the Haiga Sophia from the outside (the queue to get in was mental at nearly all hours of the day) – so if you’re planning a trip, get there very early.

I also went to the modern part of Istanbul. Just off Turin Square is Istanbul’s equivalent to Oxford Street – absolutely packed with big name brands and tourists. I happened across this cafe (which I think is actually a chain in Turkey) and had the BEST ice cream and cakes ever. It’s called Ozsut  just in case you ever want to go!

And that pretty much concludes my trip to Istanbul. I think at the end of each travel post I’m going to list top things to do, top tips and things to skip (luckily there weren’t any on this trip but sometimes the things the guidebooks love ain’t so hot).

Don’t miss

• A tour up and down the Bosphorous

• Haggling at The Grand Bazaar

• The Blue Mosque

• Raki and apple tea (both traditional Turkish drinks). Try their traditional dessert Baklava too.

• Eating on a rooftop (this is impossible to miss really and EVERYWHERE is a rooftop cafe or bar in Istanbul! The views of the Bosphorous and the city are amazing)

Don’t bother

• There are endless corn and roast chestnut vendors dotted around the city. Go to a cafe instead.

Top Tips

• Ladies and gents – when you visit a mosque make sure your legs are covered (women; cover your chest and arms too). Don’t worry about carrying around a spare headscarf – most mosques will provide you with one if you don’t have one.

• Use the trams. It costs 1 Jeton (3TL  or £1ish) per journey and they’re spacey and air-conditioned. One goes from the airport to the Old Town AND the modern part of Istanbul, you just have to make one change, so the whole thing costs you 2 Jetons. Way better than a taxi.

• Women – be careful about wandering around alone. I went with a male friend, thank God, but for the few times we decided to split up and do our own thing, I was harassed constantly. Just a FYI.

• Stay in the Old Town. Budget hotels and great and the area is very well connected.
• The Haiga Sophia is closed on a Monday – don’t rock up like we did!
• Don’t you dare go to a ‘Western’ food chain – there are endless cafes, the best ones as far as I’m concerned are in the Old City, and the food is great. First time ever on holiday I haven’t had a bad meal. Most meals + a soft drink will set you back around 25TL (around £8).

Oddisse @ The Jazz Cafe (London) 14.09.12

GENRE: Hip hop
BEST TRACK: Miami or Ready to Rock
BEST ALBUM: Travelling Man
SOUNDS LIKE: Eric Lau (music) and oddly a tad like Kanye West when he starts rapping (but not in a bad way!)

Oddisse is a pretty cool guy. Raised in Washington DC, he’s best known as a producer although his latest album, People Hear What They See, sees him turning back to being an MC, more so than he has done in a while. Personally, I think his best stuff is instrumental, but his latest album is a grower; and seeing him live was awesome.

The only support act of his I saw was Eric Lau – check him out on Youtube, he also makes some pretty good instrumental shiz. The crowd was a bit of a mix but unlike more commercial gigs people were there because they knew the likelihood of him coming back to London any time soon was slim. They were loooovin’ it.

Any way: first half of the gig was awesome, he started with a song off his latest album (this went down REALLY well live):

However, the second half of the gig was a little lacklustre. Still good, but the energy level dropped a little. Still, totally worth the £10. Here’s my fave song of Oddisse’s, which he didn’t play, but shows what an awesome producer he is.

Go check him out.

You are not a beautiful or unique snowflake (Tyler Durden)

When you’re looking for a partner, or trying to sell yourself to a person (no, not as in ‘on the streets’ but as in on a dating website or on that first date) people always make themselves out to be something special. Something extra special. Sometimes – they are. A lot of the time… well, at the end of the day everyone has a job, everyone wants money and to be loved and we all need to sleep at least 4 times a week in order to not go crazy.

I wonder if I really am particularly quirky. People, apparently, consider me to be. I suppose I’m an odd mix; pretending to be uber confident on the one hand but very humble on the other. Speaking gangster one second but vehemently believing in women’s rights – human rights and equality in general. Watching shit TV but also being well read, politically informed and generally smart. I wear bright clothes and my underwear rarely matches. If I could wander round with my face painted like a tiger every day, rather than putting on make up, I would. I dye my hair red because I believe it suits my personality, but it’s a happy coincidence that it also suits my colouring and eyes and therefore makes me a little less unattractive.

A guy got me thinking tonight. He came up to me, wearing plain jeans, not particularly great shoes and a lion t-shirt. Normal, sort brown hair. Don’t get me wrong, I ADORE lions and the t-shirt was awesome. But he didn’t stand out. He tried making conversation but he didn’t do anything to make me remember him…  was I right to brush him off? My last boyfriend definitely stood out. Afro mohawk and a reasonably sharp dresser. On our first date he stuck his fingers up and swore at me. I liked it. Strangers would come up to him and make conversation simply about his hair. Then again, it also meant a lot of other girls noticed him too, so the same thing that attracted me to him also turned into an issue.

Maybe I should give a guy with an average ‘look’ a chance. But is it so wrong of me to want to walk down the street with a guy who you really remember rather than one who blends into the crowd? It might solve a lot of problems and there are certainly more of those men out there than the kind of guy I’m looking for. When I say I want ‘him’ to stand out, I mean like this….

Oh my, those trousers. Those smart, pointed shoes. All in all a great look which I can totally get behind. True, he’s posing like a douche here, but if I passed him in the street and he wasn’t draping himself over some railings, I’d certainly look twice.

As far as I’m concerned, my clothes and the way I style myself is an extension of my personality. This entire post isn’t me being vain – it’s me wanting to be able to get an idea of what a guy is like by simply looking at him. Which, I know, isn’t every totally possible – but someone a little flamboyant and unafraid to make a statement can’t be all bad. Or maybe they can..

I’m not sure that this post has got me anywhere at all. What do you think? Do you like a guy/girl who wears their personality for all to see or is it not an issue for you? I think I need to give the average joe a bit more of a chance, perhaps. We’ll see.

My Travel Bucket List (inevitably only part 1)

Update, December 2017: I’ve now been to some of these places (WHOOP) so thought I’d update this post 🙂 The stuff in red is part of the update.
Original post: So, I’ve been thinking about all the places I want to see before I die. That’s a lie, I’d like to see them before I turn 30. I don’t plan on EVER having kids so I guess I can fly off aged 50 at a moment’s notice, but let’s face it, it’s better to me youthful and free spirited (and not worrying about a mortgage) when you do these things, right?

I’m putting together a list of all the places I want to visit; some are sights, some are cities, some are countries. But something about each of them intrigues me and I love learning about different places and cultures. When I went to Botswana, rather than the pretty sights and a sun tan, I was most enthralled by elephant graveyards and stories of poachers, eating warthog and lotus flowers plucked from the Okavango Delta, discovering that Cola is easier to get hold of than water… may not seem interesting to you, but I feel like I’ve really experienced the place.
Anyway, enough rambling: on with the list. Hell, let’s go all ‘centred’ too.

1. The Amazon Rainforest (South America)

Ok, ok: I’m well aware that when I go to the Amazon Rainforest I will NOT be able to take a photograph as beautiful as the one above. But LOOK at the place. The incredible ecosystem, the wildlife – sure, most of it is creepy and crawly and scary – but what a place to be scared. I’ve wanted to go to South America ever since my friend went a few years ago and she seemed to have an incredible time. Did you know that over 50% of the world’s species are thought to be native to the Amazon Rainforest? I think the rapid decline of the rainforest is also something to spur me on; I’d love to see the place while it’s still there in it’s (almost) entirety. Just imagining sailing along the waterway into the basin. Amazing. Might have a little wander around the Inca ruins while I’m “in the area” too.

2. The Taj Mahal (India) – BEEN!

If some fella built this for me, needless to say, I’d be pretty impressed. I was impressed, but honestly? Not as much as I thought I’d be. Like… SUCH huge expectations were going to be hard to meet. But in no way would I say it’s something to miss! I’m not a morning person, but sunrise at the Taj Mahal would be able to get me out of bed at Stupid O’Clock. I’d also love to visit India to try and see a Tiger in it’s natural habit, although according to people who have been on these national park tours, it’s quite a rare occurrence. Yeah, I didn’t get to do this. Dehli doesn’t really interest me that much when I think of India. It’s Agra and Jaipur that intrigue me the most. As well, of course, as the Ganges. So the Ganges in Varanasi were SUCH A HIGHLIGHT. Way better than I thought it would be. And Jaipur was also pretty spectacular. But it was Pushkar, which I hadn’t even considered, that really bowled me over.

3. The Dead Sea (Israel/Jordan) – DONE

The Dead Sea fascinates me. When you think of the middle east, let’s face it, most people think about turmoil and bloodshed. However, tucked away at the lowest point on Earth is the world’s biggest spa – full of salt and goodness. It did make my skin feel awesome. And unfortunately, the Middle East still has super negative connotations, but I’m so glad I went to Jordan all the same – it was totally safe and a wonderful experience. Just being able to float in between Israel and Jordan, in such peaceful tranquility, must be an incredible experience. Actually, it hurt and was pretty stressful. One of those experiences that you appreciate more once it’s over! It’s more surreal then relaxing! I would, genuinely, love to visit the middle east and I think this would be the perfect reason to go.

4. Sicily (Italy)

Alright, this may be partly to do with The Godfather. But after a little more research than just watching three films, I’ve decided Sicily is the kind of place I’d never even think about going (lots of pretty buildings and landscapes, nothing to do). However, then I found out about the amazing Citta Del Mare resort slide. Looks incredible. I also like the idea of Sicily because, to me, it doesn’t seem to overrun with tourists. Wanna go to Italy – visit Milan, Rome, Venice. But I’m off to Sicily folks.

5. Seattle (North America) – currently planning to go July 2018!

I am well aware that Seattle is a rainy city in Pacific Northwest. But Seattle, sort of, defined my teenage years. Like a lot of kids I adored Nirvana: Kurt Cobain being something of a misunderstood grunge God to me. Frasier is one of the best TV shows ever – true, when I go I won’t be able to afford the kind of restaurants these fictional guys eat in, but it’d make me feel a part of it. I would like to point out now, Sleepless in Seattle has not influenced this choice at all. Bleugh. But.. Twilight may have done. DON’T JUDGE ME. But when I was about 17 I read the Twilight books, got all my Uni mates to read all the Twilight books, and then dropped any interest in them as soon as the film was announced. I now know better. Yet I’m still going to Seattle. Haha.

6. Tokyo (Japan)

I’d love to go to Tokyo as it seems quite literally like a different world. True, it’s a big ol’ city like London or New York, but its history, architecture and the lifestyle  and culture of the people there are so far removed from what I’m used to. The tech, the food, the nightlife… it would be a great experience. I feel like it’s the kind of place where I’d definitely need a companion to go with though. One day…

7. Cuba – BEEN

Naturally, the political history fascinates me.  I went while Fidel was still alive, so had limited, but some interesting, conversations about him with the locals! However, according to people who’ve been there, it’s like stepping back in time. Classic cars everywhere – amazing. This was pretty cool. Cuba is beautiful, inexpensive (well, once you’re there) and full of history. Paradise on the beaches and “locked in time since the revolution” (according to traveller’s reviews). Fascinating stuff. I adored Cuba. 

8. Lake Malawi (Malawi) – might go here this year too! If not, DEFFO next year.

I joined my tour group in Africa just after they’d left Malawi and every single one of them said it was the high point of their tour. I mean – what more reason do I need other than THAT water? Apparently the people are amazing, the culture is rich and varied and the scenery is second to none.

9. Puerto Princesa Underground River (Philippines)
You know what? I’m not sure this is on my bucket list anymore. Don’t get me wrong, it would be super cool to go to… but I’d probably replace it with Banff National Park in Canada (gorgeous lakes and hiking) or the Bolivian Salt Flats.

The subterranean river flows through underground caves and opens up into a lagoon with crystal clear water. I would LOVE to sail through the caves – would be such an incredible experience. It was recently dubbed one of the ‘New 7 Wonders of the Natural World’.

10. The Great Pyramid of Giza (Egypt)

Sorry to be all obvious, but seeing the Pyramids (and the Nile) would be incredible. Ancient Egyptian history always interested me and I think seeing the only remaining Seven Wonder of the Ancient World would be pretty cool.

Care to share your ‘Bucket List’ locations? I’m always searching (usually Skyscanner) for awesome places to add to the list so I know exactly how poor I’m going to end up after all the travelling. If you’ve been anywhere particularly awesome let me know!

Hannah only rhymes with hammer.

…That’s a lie. It doesn’t really rhyme with hammer at all. Maybe I’m trying to say I’m unique, who knows?

I’m Hannah. I live in London. I used to live in the countryside, but the dream has always been London and somehow I managed to get here. About a year ago I was stuck in a low paying job which I disliked, based in my little countryside home town and I was bored. So I decided to change things. I handed in my notice, went travelling, came back and got a job in social media marketing in London – and shortly after that I moved here.
Anyway, that’s about as much background as you need. Perhaps a photo?

This blog is about my passions. I love finding new places to eat and drink in London (I work in Soho so there’s always something new popping up). I LOVE travelling and finding hidden gems in cities you’d think have been totally uncovered by the tourists. I adore music; I’d say this, along with the travelling, is my main passion. Can’t go a day without music. And love – currently single (maybe ‘it’s complicated’? No, I’m single. Apparently.) – love is tricky, so expect a rant or two about the London dating scene and gender politics. I also love fashion but not your ‘what’s the latest trend OMG a catwalk’ kind of fashion so I’ll just smush that in amongst my other ramblings…

The only other stuff you really need to know about me is that I dye my hair red because I love bright colours and I feel it suits my personality. I like doing things spur of the moment but often get frustrated when things don’t go to plan. I like bargain hunting. Mis-matching clothes are a trademark as is my black winged eyeliner. I love to read and watch films; although I used to have more time and money to spend on this I’m trying to get back into it. I like visiting supermarkets in the middle of the night and driving my car around the countryside when it’s sunny, windows down, music blaring.

Laters.